Consumer Tips
Clothing Care Chic
Caring for Silk
Silk Needs Special Care
How Do You Remove Mud Stains?
How Do You Remove Perspiration?
How Do You Remove Nail Polish?
Clothing
Care Chic
Dirty
DKNY duds? Smudge ruining a pair of Pradas? Don't dash off to the mall
for replacements -- give these cleaning tips for the well-heeled Bay
Area wardrobe a spin instead
Tara Aronson, Special to The Chronicle
What good is a pair of pink Prada linen mules after a Fillmore Street
bus splashes them with gutter grunge? A cashmere sweater after a SoMa
waiter spills a glass of red wine on it? A leather jacket that's
languished in the basement and is now mottled with mildew?
They're as good as new if you know the tricks of the fashion-care trade.
After all, one of the most important aspects of fashion is caring for
all those precious garments after you get them home. Today's trend
toward more relaxed workplaces and lifestyles has led to more fabrics
and blends actually designed to be cared for at home.
Yet this comfy trend begets a tough dilemma that demands sorting out:
How does one care for today's fabrics and blends without ruining the
whole bunch?
There's Lycra interwoven with nylon, cotton or acrylic. Rayon-cotton
combinations. Cotton-poly-elastane blends. Spandex mingled with nylon.
Polyester pumped up with rayon. And just plain hemp. (Some find the look
intoxicating, apparently.)
The new international symbols printed on clothing labels only seem to
further sully matters. Do you know what a triangle means? A circle?
Three black dots? (Now you do: bleach, dry-clean and hot water.)
Considering the average load of laundry is valued at about $500 and that
an average family sends eight to 10 loads of laundry for a spin in the
washing machine each week, the answer is as important for your wallet as
it is for your wardrobe.
While doing the wash will probably never be more fashionable than, say,
an evening at 42 Degrees or Aqua, a few minutes of clothing and
accessory care can have even a closet K-mart shopper looking like a
million bucks.
Here are a few tips and tidbits to keep you in the cool clothing care
loop this summer: .
BASIC BLENDS
Here's one fashion rule you won't want to break:
-
With
any fabric blend, tailor your cleaning to the most delicate component
of the garment. If either fiber or the trim or binding require
handwashing, dry cleaning or low temperature washing and drying, this
will determine the cleaning care.
-- When in doubt, wash or dry clean according to the primary fiber in
the blend.
SEASONAL STORAGE
-
Hang
in a cool, dry place out of direct sunlight: Lycra, nylon, polyester,
rayon, spandex, acetate blends and silk.
-
Dry
thoroughly: Cotton is sensitive to mildew and acid. Then store in a
cool dry place out of direct sunlight.
-
Lay
flat in cedar chest or with cedar chips or mothballs: cashmere and
wool.
-
Hang
in old dry cleaning bags: Hemp and linen. It prevents wrinkling in
storage.
FINE
AND FUNKY FABRICS
-
Cashmere with a red wine spill can be revived with a spin in your
washer's delicate cycle -- or washed by hand -- in cold water. Don't
wring cashmere -- you'll damage the fibers. Reshape and lay flat to
dry away from direct heat or sunlight. To remove excess water after
washing, gently roll in a towel.
-
Hemp
is a natural fabric whose popularity has grown over the past few
years. On the bright side: It washes well because it is stronger wet
than dry. Machine wash in warm or cool water, permanent press or
casual cycle. It dries quickly -- hanging dry is sufficient. Dry
cleaning is not recommended.
-
Pashmina. Don't be afraid to wash this silk and cashmere blend. It
spent 30 to 60 minutes in water just below the boiling point followed
by two washes during the dying process that made it so
lustrous-looking. Wash in warm water with a gentle, natural shampoo
such as Aveda. Lay flat to dry. Machine drying can damage fibers.
-
Beaded
blue jeans. Turn inside out and wash in cool water, handwash cycle.
Dry flat or on a dryer rack -- not in the dryer.
-- Treat mildew stains on leather garments by blotting a small amount
of antiseptic mouthwash on the affected area.
SHOES
AND BAGS
-
Vinyl
or patent leather can be revived with a spritz of Pledge furniture
polish directly on the handbag or shoes. Or, spray the furniture
cleaner onto a lint-free cloth. Buff away residue.
-
Linen
mules or handbags may be sponged-clean with warm water and mild soap,
such as Dove, dissolved in warm water. Leave heavy soils to a handbag
or shoe repair shop or specialty dry cleaner to prevent discoloration.
-
On
leather, gently blot liquid stains with a clean cloth or wipe with a
clean damp cloth.
FASHION DO'S
-
Linen
washes well because it is stronger wet than dry. A 60 degrees Celsius
wash is most effective -- it smoothes the surface of the flax fibers
allowing stains to be released easily. Be sure to follow the
manufacturer's care instructions, however, as these take into account
other elements in the garment's make-up such as linings, trimmings and
special finishes.
-
Machine-washing is the preferred manner for cleaning Lycra. If the
other fibers in the garment are machine washable, this is the
recommended method for cleaning. Thorough washing and rinsing bring
out the best in Lycra.
-
Your
wimpy (lightweight) clothes should be dried first -- away from heavier
fabrics. This will help prevent damage and shrinking. Lightweight,
delicate fabrics such as lingerie are sensitive to heat and should be
dried while the machine is cool. Average-weight garments like pants
and dress shirts should be dried next followed by heavyweights like
towels and jeans which can handle the hot drum.
-
Linen
should always be ironed damp, first on the wrong side to eliminate
creases and then on the right side to enhance the fabric's natural
sheen.
FASHION DON'TS
-
Leather pants and jackets should never be covered or tucked into
plastic bags: It can cause excess drying. Instead, hang leather
apparel on wide wooden, plastic or padded hangers to help maintain
shape. Cover with a breathable cloth (a cotton sheet or towel works
well) and keep away from damp areas, such as the cellar, and from
prolonged exposure to sunlight.
-
Don't
pack the washing machine to capacity when washing linen -- the highly
absorbent fiber can absorb twice its weight in water before it drips.
It therefore washes better when the washing machine is not packed to
capacity and it can move about freely, dislodging stains.
-
Don't
dry towels with corduroy pants -- unless you like linted clothes.
Separate lint-shedders, such as fuzzy sweatshirts, chenille robes,
flannels and towels, from lint-keepers, such as knits, corduroys and
permanent-press and synthetic fabrics.
-
Don't
get in the habit of taking your cotton garments to the dry cleaner.
The chemical process used there may distort the color of cotton
garments.
-
Don't
assume you can't wash it: Labels that say 'Dry Clean' instead of 'Dry
Clean Only' may be hand-washable.
Caring for Silk
-
Washing:
Wash silk in lukewarm water with a non-alkaline soap
and rinse thoroughly. You may add pure white vinegar to the rinse
water to neutralize traces of alkali in the water and dissolve soap
residue. To retain the silks natural luster avoid soaking garments
for more than 3-5 minutes, washing your silks in very cold water, or
using harsh detergents containing bleaches and brighteners.
-
Stains:
Use a specially formulated silk washing soap to remove stains on silk and
other fine fabrics. Treat food and beverage stains right away. Soft
drinks and alcohol can leave stains if allowed to dry. Do not use
chlorine bleach on silk-it will "eat" the fiber.
-
Drying:
You can let your silk dry naturally or use the "air fluff" (no heat)
setting on your dryer. To dry naturally, lightly squeeze (do not
wring) your silk, roll in a towel, and lay flat to dry. Shake your
silk during drying to prevent stiffness. Do not use a wooden drying
rack, the dyes and finishes can stain your silks. Also do not let
your silk dry in direct sunlight, it can damage the fiber and fade
the color.
-
Pressing:
Press your silk inside out with a warm iron when needed. If your
iron is too hot, it can dull, pucker, or burn your silk.
-
Daily Care:
Let your perfume and hairspray dry before dressing. Substances
containing alcohol can damage your silk. Store your silks in a dark
closet or drawer and keep them away from excessive heat or moisture.
Silk Needs Special Care
-
Stains: Never rub a stain, especially on silk since the fabric
is so fragile. Always blot the stain to remove as much of the substance
as possible without spreading it—this will also avoid damaging the
fabric.
-
Perfume & Cologne: Contact with alcohol can dissolve certain
dyes and result in permanent color loss. This is especially true of
delicate fabrics such as silk. The alcohol content of most perfumes and
colognes is capable of causing such damage.
-
Hand Washing: Only pre-washed silk is washable, though dry
cleaning is generally preferred. For washable silk, follow the care
instructions precisely. For items without linings or embellishments,
careful handwashing with mild soap and lukewarm water is usually
acceptable. Be sure not to wring the garment as silk becomes weaker when
wet. Instead, fold the item in a towel and roll it up to remove the
excess water.
-
Trust the Experts: If you are unsure about how to handle your
silk garments, bring them to an expert. Professionals will clean
or launder them with the most appropriate method and help keep them
looking beautiful.
How Do You Remove Mud Stains?
Most mud stains can be removed by washing the item according to the
care instructions. Let the mud dry, then brush off as much as possible
using a soft bristle brush, such as an old tooth brush. Then wash using
regular laundry detergent.
For those more difficult stains, try one of the many pretreatment
products on the market. You can also use a mixture of detergent and
ammonia as a pretreatment:
- Measure the amount of detergent needed for the load. Take a small
amount of the detergent and mix it with regular household ammonia (the
non-sudsing type) to form a paste and apply to the stained area. Let
stand for five to ten minutes, then launder as usual using the hottest
water allowable for the garment.
- Be sure to test for colorfastness before using any stain removal
agent. To test for color fastness, apply a small amount of the product
to an unexposed area of the garment. Let stand for about five minutes,
then rinse. If the color is affected, don't use the product. Also
check the label on your laundry detergents, as many of them give
step-by-step pretreatment instructions.
How Do You Remove Perspiration?
Perspiration can be very damaging to fabrics. It can hurt fibers,
cause color changes and create permanent staining. The fatty acids,
cholesterol and chloride salts in perspiration can yellow with age, and
the salt can deteriorate fibers, especially silk. In most cases, the
damage is a progressive condition. The longer the perspiration remains
in contact with the fabric, the greater the damage.
Cleaning your garments on a regular basis is best. Call attention to
these stains at the dry cleaner. However, your washable items shouldn't
present a problem. Most perspiration will come out with detergent. If
needed, enzyme presoaks — available at your grocery store — work very
well on this type of stain.
In some cases, soaking in a three-percent hydrogen peroxide bath may
help. Use two ounces of hydrogen peroxide per gallon of warm water.
Remember to test for colorfastness before using any treatments.
How Do You Remove Nail Polish?
Items with nail polish stains are best treated by your dry cleaner.
However, if the garment is washable, and you wish to treat the stain,
try using the following procedure.
For best results, treat the stain as soon as possible using a nail
polish remover. Note that the remover may create another stain. Before
using, test for fabric damage and colorfastness by applying a few drops
to an unexposed area. Let stand for five minutes. If the color or fabric
is damaged, don't use the product. This applies especially to nail
polish removers that contain acetone, which may permanently damage
acetate or acetate-blend fabrics.
To proceed with the remover, place the stained area over several
layers of white paper towels. Apply a few drops of remover to the stain.
Let it soak into the stain, then gently blot with a paper towel; do not
rub. Allow the nail polish remover to evaporate from the fabric. After
testing for colorfastness, use a laundry prespotter to treat any
remaining stain.
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